acknowledgments/6 1 the fashion game/9 fashion sewing as an art form/10 color/12 prints/14 texture/15 line/16 proportion and balance/18 your fashion analysis/19 figure/22 your body profile/25 2 the wonderful world of fabrics/29 the wonderful world of fabrics/30 fibers/30 yarns/33 fabric structure/34 basic weaves/35 knits/37 other fabric constructions/39 finishes/40 color and fabric pattern/42 fiber and fabric facts/45 inner construction/49 guide to underlinings and linings/53 guide to interfacings/54 3 your pattern profile/57 pattern design/58 the creation of a pattern/58 the vogue catalogue/59 choosing the pattern size for you/60 your body measurements/60 understanding pattern sizing/62 understanding ease/65 4 patterns and equipment/67 pattern particulars/68 pattern pieces: blueprints/70 pattern cutting guide/72 pattern sewing guide/74 choosing the correct fabric/76 fabrics requiring extra yardage/78 fabric width conversion chart/79 notions: your sewing accessories/80 needle and thread chart/84 special uses/85 the sewing machine/93 machine equipment/94 the overlock machine/98 tools for every sewing need/102 5 prepare to sew/111 prepare to sew/112 preparing your fabric/113 achieving perfect fit/17 understanding ease/120 identify lengths/121 prepare to alter your pattern/123 flat pattern adjustments/125 dresses, skirts, bodice adjustments/126 pants adjustments/132 cut with care/136 special fabric layouts/139 mark with accuracy/150 more notes on underlining/153 6 construction basics/155 your complete sewing handbook/156 hand stitches—getting started/157 basting/158 hand sewing/160 machine stitching/164 darts/174 tucks/176 pleats/179 godets/183 gathering and shirring/184 ruffles/187 mitering/190 7 construction techniques/193 interfacing applications/194 facings and other edge finishes/197 bindings/203 bands/208 casings/213 collars/215 flat collar/216 rolled collar/218 shawl collar/220 standing collar/222 fold-over bias collar/222 tie collar/223 collar with stand/224 detachable collar/225 sleeves/226 gussets/231 sleeve finishes/233 placket openings for cuffs/236 special sleeve closings/238 cuffs/240 pockets/246 welt pockets/250 side-front slanted pockets/252 In-seam pockets/253 waistlines/255 waistbands/258 belts and carriers/262 closures/266 fabric and thread loops/275 buttons/278 zippers/281 fasteners/288 hems/290 hem finishes/293 special hems/294 pressing/296 8 advanced pattern alterations/305 prepare to alter/306 personal fitting alterations—dresses, skirts, bodices/308 personal fitting alterations—pants/329 fitting as you sew/331 9 fabrics requiring special handling/337 fabrics with give/338 fabrics that flow and float/344 fabrics with luster/351 fabrics with surface style/355 leather and suede/361 synthetic suede/366 the elegance of fur/371 10 impeccable tailoring/377 creative tailoring/378 first stage: the skirt/381 tailoring challenge: jacket or coat/383 attaching interfacing to your garment/385 lining as a finale/397 11 the custom touch/403 couture techniques/404 the inside story/405 the shapekeepers/406 the finest fastenings/408 the finishing touches/410 creative trims/413 fringe/416 lace and embroidered trims/418 beading/421 feathers and fur/424 fashion stitching/425 fabric manipulation & embellishment/429 appendix/434 index/448